On the TSI, this is accomplished by gently pulling up on each of the four corners. The cover will simply pop off, and set it safely off to the side. Use both wiring harnesses if equipped and twist the red, yellow, and black wires together. It is helpful to strip a quarter inch of sheathing from each wire. Crimp a butt-connector to the end of each of the combined wires. Then, crimp a single wire about 12 inches in length to the end of each wire combination.
Using multi-colored wires is extremely helpful, or at least label them so you know which is constant power, switched power, and ground. I received my gauges yesterday. Can't wait to get them onto my GTI.
This guide will be extremely helpful. King MK5 Ready to race! Location Houston. Hey thanks PetrolHead. This guide was quite a good help. The installation was quite simple and went very smoothly using your guide.
My only problem relates to my oil pressue gauge. I don't know whether to replace the stock sensor or try to "tee" off of it and use both. Any suggestions? Location ubc Car s 09 CW Gti. Ony Ready to race! Location San Jose, CA. Ony said:. Location Sydney Car s Mk4 Golf.
Can't wait to do this mod. Nice write up mate. I posted this in your regional thread also, Red 2 Yellow 12 :thumbsup:. I completely stripped a wire and use the metal to connect the vm to the top of the wiring harness.
Does podi have a warranty or something? Das Gespenst Go Kart Champion. Location Glen Ellyn. Ran into the same problem, just installed the mono pod with the electronic stepping motor boost gauge. When I have the yellow going to the switched fuse and the red going ro the constant I get nothing.
Twisted them both together and went to a single constant, gauge works great now but the damn thing is always on! No idea how to fix this but for now at least the gauge works. If anyone has any ideas im all ears, this is going to drive me nuts! That said, great DIY and really only takes about a half hour- hour at the most. Das Gespenst said:.
The biggest time killer for me was screwing the clip into the back of the boost gauge to secure it to the housing. Depending on the brand of the boost gauge you may or may not have to use the supplied clip; some boost gauges are a little fatter and secure themselves tightly in the pod. Also, before you get it all hooked up in the pod, c heck the light to make sure it illuminates. I forgot to do that and had to take it all back apart to reverse the LED.
I might also recommend you remove the negative battery cable from the battery, so you do not blow out any fuses or shock yourself while cutting wires, but I'm not your mother, so make that decision on your own. At the bottom of your knee panels beneath the steering wheel, there will be 3 Torx screws, I believe size 20 or Remove those three screws, and the plastic panel above the pedals can now be removed. No picture here, as mine was missing.
Take a flathead screwdriver—with some electrical tape folded over the blade so you will not scratch the button or vent—and lightly pry at the sides of the dimmer switch.
With very little pressure you should be able to release it. Once it is released, wiggle it out as much as you can. The switch is being held on by two metal tabs on the sides. If one should fall off, don't worry, they can be slid back onto the switch during re-installation. You should be able to work the switch out enough to reach the wire harness clipped into the back. Squeezing the sides of the harness will release it from the dimmer switch.
Pull open the fuse panel door, use a screwdriver in the little notch if needed and place it to the side. Now pull directly out on the panel surrounding the fuses. It is placed in there the same as the fuse door, clips around the front and sides and slides out in the back.
Pull it like in the picture and once it starts to pop out wedge your fingers in the crack and gently pry it off. The piece of trim directly above the steering column will also need to come out, but does not need to be completely removed it is connected in the middle by a piece of leather.
Just grab it on both sides of the steering column and pull forward; it should slide out pretty easily. Reaching into the side panel that you removed, you can pull out the harness that you disconnected from the dimmer switch. The harness will have three wires attached to it: a grey one, a grey one with a blue stripe, and a brown one.
Cut the grey wire with the blue stripe about two inches down from the harness, and strip the ends of both sides. Take whatever wire you will be using as your positive connection and feed it through the trim you removed on the steering column.
Looking through the side panel you will be able to see it flapping around in there, grab it and pull it to the dimmer wire harness. Before you crimp the other side on, it helps to fold over the wire to make it a little thicker.
Once both sides are crimped you should have a connection like in the picture below. Optional For the negative wire, you can go through the same process to attach it to the brown wire on the harness. But if you would like to avoid cutting more stock wires, then follow the directions below. If you look above the pedals under the dash, you will see a relay panel with four different bolt posts pictured. To the left side of the bolt post labeled "75x" circled in green , there is another 10mm bolt circled in red that holds the panel to the car.
This bolt is a great place for the negative wire. Feed the wire through the steering column, like you did with the positive wire, and pull it through near the pedals. After you loosen the 10 mm bolt you can wrap the wire around it and retighten it, but I would recommend instead using a small terminal ring crimped to the end of the wire then screwed back on around the bolt.
Keep it clean and stock looking. Your wiring is done! The gauge light will turn on and off with your dash lights and brighten or darken with the dimmer switch. Before you screw your gauge into the pod, remember to check and make sure the bulb lights up, if you are using an LED light. If it doesn't light up, flip the bulb around and try it again.
Like I said, I'm not going to cover this topic extensively as it is pretty simple and there are hundreds of DIY's out there covering this part. This is the most common way that people route in the boost gauge hose. Also, I know the vac lines look like a sloppy mess. I just had to get everything hooked up and attached to pass emissions. In the picture above, the item circled in red is your FPR fuel pressure regulator. This is the easiest and most common vacuum line to tap into that shows both vacuum and boost coming from the intake manifold.
It is located on the right side of the fuel rail towards the windshield if you have an Audi , and unlike in the picture, the hose will be black braided fabric. It will look somewhat like bicycle-pump hosing. Cut that hose in half a few inches or so from the FPR and insert your "t" coupler for your boost hose. You can use tiny hose clamps to tighten it on, but I suggest using zip ties instead.
It may sound trashy, but if you use black you can't see them, and they seal a lot better than small hose clamps. Now on the firewall under your windshield in the engine bay , you will see a black disc about a foot across stuck to it your brake booster. Just to the top of the disc and to the left, there is a little rubber round grommet about a centimeter in size. That is where you will be running your boost hose into the car; it is also where you would run an amplifier cable for subwoofers.
I like the cars, the cars that go boom! My name is With some needle-nose pliers, pull that grommet out, or push it through to the other side and you should be able to find it somewhere by your pedals. With a razor blade, cut an X in the middle so you can run your boost hose through it and re-insert it into its hole. Push your boost hose through until you can reach it under your pedals; once you can, grab it, route it up through the steering column trim, and attach it to your boost gauge.
Back on the engine side, cut off the extra hose, leaving a little slack, and connect it to the "T" coupler you inserted into your FPR hose. I figure it can't hurt to go over this bolt post circled in green in the picture. This post supplies 12 volts of power whenever the car is turned on. So if you don't mind having your boost gauge light constantly on when the car is running, you can attach it to this bolt post. Trying to connect the aftermarket stereo ignition wire, which is usually yellow with a red stripe, to the Volkswagen radio harness will not work.
Connecting the ignition wire to another wire and running it to the 75x post will allow the stereo to work properly when the car is turned on and off. You can also use this post if you want to run floorboard LEDs loser or anything else that runs off of volt power that you want to turn on once your car is switched on. The two posts next to the 75x, which I believe are labeled 30x. I can't think of any logical use for them besides blinking alarm lights, unless maybe you want to set up surveillance equipment in your car.
Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters. I have used my Audi 80 Avant estate for reference.
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